Some on here run Mobil 1 synthethic, other on here like myself don't think it's worth the money on a stock motor with such low performance. You can really run any brand you like, provided that the viscosity is correct for your area.
Check your owners manual to find the right viscosity. If you've never heard of it, Bob's Site has just about everything you've ever wanted to know about motor oil on there. Read up on that a bit if you don't already have a favorite oil, and go from there. But any dino 10w30 summer or 5w30 in winter will do if you change it every 5k miles based on Owner's Manual under severe service. If I did the synthetic switcheroo, I'd push my oil change intervals out to 7.
Owner's Manual Recommends 5w30 or 10w30 because of winter. But if it's summer, you can use straight 30 weight. If you are using synthetic, you can use 5w30 the throughout the year regardless of weather because it is synthetic and it stays 5w30 all the time!
If you are using dino, use 10w30 in summer, it contains less additive to achieve 10w30 20 difference compared to 5w30 25 difference. Meaning less additive breakdown. The lower the additive, the better the oil. Stick with OEM filter. Synthetic has less additive. Why, because it doesn't need to protect tha base oil. Base oil doesn't brake down. Oil that has a big difference in multigrade value has more additive. To try to maintain the grade as well as try to keep the base oil from breaking down, conventional oil use a lot more additive.
If you can live in a warm country always 35F and your car specifies 10w30 or 5w30 in winter, use straight 30 grade synthetic oil and you might never have to change your oil ever!
About the oil factor I hear that mobil 1 is not good for mazda engines, something about it containing sulfur and it not being good for mazda engines, but as far as I'm concerned I know people that have ran over , mile on their with mobil 1 and no problems.
So I don't know B I say go for Mobil 1. I also hear that castrol GTX for higher mileage engines is great, but never seen it used in a I used M1 filter to back up oil's millege. It is still clear and about 3k i went on that oil. That is exactly wrong! If u have , miles on a car all the seals are old and are form fitted to that engine.
Since synthetic oil is thinner than conventional oil it will find every leak available. SO if its a newer engine u can chance it but if its old stay with the good old petroleum I don't believe in this whole additive market. I don't think anything is better than Mobil1 alone. Or sign in with one of these services Sign in with Facebook. So even if it's been using synthetic, I can just start filling it with conventional and it won't hurt the engine? You can mix and blend conventional oil with synthetic as well as different weights thickness of oil.
Just make sure you use the correct weighted oil for your climate zone. Correct weight to use is printed on the label. Read the temperature range on the jug. The oil that you want to use is specific to each individual engine. A old engine is more likely to have wider tolerances and you'll want an thicker oil to fill those tolerances.
Synthetic oil is thinner and is better for newer vehicles where tolerances between moving parts is tighter coming fresh off the assembly line. Generally the older a vehicle gets the thicker the oil you'll want to use as tolerances wear out. I'm still using 10W conventional oil and my engine is pretty happy with it. The price difference between synthetic and dino oil is narrowing. There's also semi-synthetics as a compromise. I change the oil and filter on all my cars at 5K miles, no oil issues.
I recently had the valve cover off my with K on the clock, clean as a whistle inside. No additives or anything else, just regular changes and a decent filter. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
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